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Thursday, March 31, 2016
Surfing Newport Beach California
I would get up at 4:30 AM and load my red Ramsey Jay long board on my makeshift wagon wheeled cart that I had tied to my bike seat spindle.
The surfboard and the cart were given to me by
Then I would peddle my bike from 45th street to the 'River Jettys' located between Newport Beach and Huntington Beach.
Wet suits for surfers had not been invented yet so I would just brave the cold winter waters.
One blessing was the fact that surfing was not the big thing that it is today.
In fact no one was out in the water most mornings, it was lonely.
I would have loved some company on my early morning before school surf sessions.
Especially those mornings when gentle off~shore winds held up the glassy waves for those epic A~frames.
Surfing was a very peaceful venture back then, with no crowds.
And then something happened and now it is very rare to get the waves all to yourself.
Yup, I grew up in the best of times!
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